Sign of the Times?

An interesting article today on Boston.com discussed how local restaurants have been shuttered due to the downturn in the economy. I'm not sure I'm entirely buying that premise.

Persephone was a media darling, getting featured on the local news sources several times for their cutting edge concept: a high-end clothing boutique paired with a modern restaurant. The article tries to assert that the restaurant closed because of low sales, although it's implied that location had more to do with it than anything else. The author and owners also concede that maybe Boston diners weren't ready for such a concept-based restaurant.

I was surprised to see in the article that Icarus had closed, but as I noted back in January, Icarus' cuisine and service wasn't what it once was. Several years ago, the restaurant was packed with mainly middle-aged and older patrons on a weeknight. In 2007 and 2008, a few trips there showed an emptier dining room and poorer dishes. I definitely credit Icarus was being one of my first "foodie" experiences and I think the Chef's sentiment that foodies are now mainstream and more cultivated certainly rings true. But, I think Icarus' downfall was due to execution, not to more wallet-sensitive patrons.

The article closes by stating that diners now crave "upscale comfort food." With the mainstreaming of foodie culture, this makes a lot of sense; there's a mass market that wants something better than the Outback Steakhouse, but also wants something that's familiar and competitively priced. People will spend $5-$10 more a plate for what they consider superior food, but it has to be food they're willing to eat. Lobster mac 'n cheese, steak & frites and truffle-laced fries all deliver that experience. Restaurants close when they can no longer find their market or aren't delivering food and a dining experience that meets expectations. I think that is the bigger force behind the restaurant closures as opposed to fewer business lunches and aversion to high-priced dining in tough economic times. Cook what the people want, serve it in a nice environment at a price they're willing to pay on a regular Wednesday night and you'll do fine.